|
 |
BOOST
LEAKS!!!
This is
the number one problem of cars that have Mass Air
Flow Sensors. If your car is Turbocharged you need
to perform a "boost leak" or "Pressure test" on your
car. Even the smallest boost leak will cause your
car to run poorly. During testing we have observed
that something as small as one vacuum line being
disconnected caused the Factory Computer to estimate
an extra 5-7% more air volume being metered at 20PSI
of Boost. This caused Air Fuel Ratio to become
.7-1.25 richer than it should and the ecu had pulled
an additional 3-5 degrees of ignition timing. It's a
loose loose situation. When pressure testing your
car, test it 10PSI over your target boost. We have
seen cars with small throttle body shaft seal boost
leaks gain 40AWHP when the small leak is repaired. |
|
 |
Vacuum Hoses
Secure
all vacuum hoses. If your vacuum/boost reference
hose happens to pop off your fuel pressure regulator
while doing a dyno pull at 5500 RPM and 27 PSI your
fuel pressure will IMMEDIATELY DROP 27PSI! Save
yourself the melted piston and invest in a bag of
small black tie straps to secure those hoses. If
your boost gauge is tapped into your Fuel Pressure
Regulator vacuum reference secure that also. |
|
 |
Hose
Clamps
Make
sure all Hose Clamps are tight and silicone couplers
are on completely. It is a huge pain to have an
intercooler pipe pop off that happens to be in a
location that is impossible to reach while the car
is on the dyno. If this happens and you want us to
repair it you will be paying for actual dyno tuning
time which is much more expensive than general
labor. |
|
 |
Timing Belt
Double Check your timing belt and make sure it is on
correctly. This is more common on 1990-1999 4G63s
and 4G64s w/ a 4G63 head (no reference marks on the
valve cover like the lucky Evo's.) Remember there
are 15 timing belt teeth between the 2 top cam gear
teeth on those years. |
|
 |
Spark Plugs
Does your car have the right spark plugs in it and
are they gapped correctly? Are they tight enough? If
not tight enough the plug could loosen up just a
little. This would cause the plug to not dissipate
heat correctly creating a hot spot in the combustion
chamber. If it's too tight it's probably too late.
Rule of thumb for every 100 horsepower over stock
you should use 1 step colder plug. If you think your
car will be making over 310 Horsepower to the wheels
on a Mustang or Dyno Dynamics dyno, gap your plugs
at .027 or below. Just for reference a stock
Evolution 9 comes with a .024-.025 spark plug gap
from the factory. |
|
 |
Ignition System
Generally speaking stock ignition systems can handle
a good amount of power. So I will just outline some
issues to look out for. If you have an Evolution and
you plan on making over 400 horsepower to the wheels
consistently purchase an HKS DLI at the least and
gap your plugs to .025 or lower. If you have a DSM
with a coil on plug setup without a AEM C2DI or an
MSD. Purchase one now before you waste your and our
time and your money on the dyno. If you own a DSM
with stock coils and are planning on making over 450
horsepower to the wheels; purchase Iridium 7's if
running methanol and Iridium 8's if using c16. Gap
your plugs to 0.024. If you have a SR20DET and are
planning on making over 330 horsepower to the wheels
gap your plugs to .026 or lower and use a set of 7s.
If you are confused about all this, call. |
|
 |
Base Ignition Timing
Double check your base Ignition timing before coming
in for dyno tuning. If your car has stock cams but
idles a bit rough and your Cam Angle Sensor Has to
be maxed out in one direction to get your ignition
timing to be right double check that your timing
belt isn't off a tooth somewhere. |
|
 |
Wheels
Make
sure all your tires are inflated to the same tire
pressure. Be sure they are all the same diameter.
Yes we have had people with AWD cars try to dyno
with mismatched wheels!!! |
|
 |
Wastegate
Be sure your wastegate is up to the task of
controlling your target boost levels. If you are
tying to make 30 PSI don't come in with a wastegate
that has a 5 PSI spring. Boost controllers can
usually double the wastegate spring pressure, but
boost isn't very stable when pushed that far. As a
rule of thumb, do not go 75% over the wastegate
springs rating. On the opposite side make sure your
wastegate isn't too small this can cause boost
creep.
Click Here for more info |
|
 |
Electrical Systems
There is nothing more annoying than having to go in
and tighten an engine ground strap that is stuck
below a hot radiator hose and intercooler piping. Be
sure to have all your electrical issues worked out
before coming in for dyno tuning. If you are not
sure if you have a electrical problem schedule a
diagnosis before dyno tuning. |
|
 |
APEXi AFC's
First and foremost if you have an Apexi AFC and
larger injectors for your Evo or DSM don't even
bother calling us for an appointment unless you have
an EPROM ECU chipped for your larger injectors, (at
this point you should have just got a DSM Link or
reflashed your computer) and you plan on running 93
or higher gasoline everywhere. If you don't know why
we say this
Click here for more info |
|
 |
Fluid Levels
Please be sure that you have Clean oil and coolant.
Double check fluids are topped off. Be sure you do
not have too little or too MUCH oil!! Yes we have
seen 1.5 quarts over the factory recommended level.
Be sure to have enough gas. If you have
methanol/water injection be sure this is full also. |
|
 |
Quality Gasoline
If we are tuning your car for pump gas please use 76
or Chevron premium gasoline. If your car has not
been running for a long time and you just got it
running don't forget to drain out all the old gas
and run through a clean tank of gas before having us
tune your car. Just because you have methanol
doesn't mean you do not need good quality gas. Be
sure that is full also. |